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California 2023

Chef Justin Cogley smiling and laughing with other guests at the table.
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A distinguished group of Gaggenau’s Black Jacket Society chefs gathered at chef Val Cantu’s Two MICHELIN Star Californios to discuss both the design and passion behind a fine dining experience. This was the second in a series of dinners and conversations with noted Black Jacket Society chefs and the topic of conversation for the evening provided an opportunity to share their personal philosophies behind their own restaurants and menus.

A distinguished group of Gaggenau’s Black Jacket Society chefs making a toast in Val Cantu’s Two MICHELIN Star Californios
Collage featuring chef Val Cantu, guests, and the lovely table setting of Californios.

Following a welcoming reception, guests gathered around the table to enjoy a lively conversation and Chef Cantu’s special menu of the evening which included Chilapita — a Masa Tart made with Black Masa, Jalapeno & Smoked Sturgeon mousse and Golden Reserve Caviar. Californios, known for elevating the foundational elements of Mexican cuisine, credits its team’s ingenuity and use of the finest ingredients for making it one of San Franscisco’s favorite spots. “There is a minimalism and restraint to California Design that evokes the feel of effortlessness,” said chef William Bradley. “Each piece serves a purpose, and that intentionality creates balance in space.”

A brightly-colored seafood dish served in a delicate seashell.

That balance impacts both the space design as well as extending to the kitchen. “What elements are essential to the experience and which can be taken away? Paring back is what allows the ingredients and components left to really shine,” Bradley continued. This belief is echoed by chef Niki Nakayama. “We wanted to create a space that evokes the heart of Japanese hospitality and atmosphere while highlighting California as a backdrop by using materials like California walnut wood to make our furniture.”

A collage featuring the Californios kitchen staff smiling and standing together, guests enjoying their meal, and chef Cantu's Chilapita—a masa tart.

Chef Teague Moriarty added Sons & Daughters cuisine approach is “simplicity and focus.” That focus also continues throughout in the minimalist new Nordic style of the restaurant’s décor and service, which support core values centered around sustainability and seasonality. For chef Justin Cogley, it’s about “the confluence between craft, culture and silhouette all wrapped in modernity that yield the best results.” Bradley added, “How all the elements – the ingredients, flavors, textures work together to create balance on the plate.”

Chef Tony Esnault and his wife, Yassmin Sarmadi.

At the heart of the experience for all the chefs is the sense of home which they infuse throughout, from the menus, the restaurant atmosphere and the service. Chef Tony Esnault has incorporated items from his travels and personal heirlooms into his restaurant design. For host chef Cantu, Californios is his home. While he relishes in the challenge and opportunity to cook in other environments and with other chefs, he always is excited to return home. Ready with new ideas and a spark to try something new.

The gatherings, which happen ahead of each MICHELIN Guide Ceremony , bring together some of America’s most celebrated chefs to discuss the intersections and nuances of fine dining and exceptional design. They will be continued in various other locations. The first in this series was held earlier this year in Miami .

A group shot of all six chefs featured at the event.

The select group of chefs and their guests included:

Tony Esnault, Knife Pleat, One MICHELIN Star, and Yassmin Sarmadi

Justin Cogley, Aubergine, One MICHELIN Star

William Bradley, Addison, Three MICHELIN Stars, and Kyra Johnson Bradley

Chef Val M. Cantu, Californios, Two MICHELIN Stars, and Carolyn Cantu

Niki Nakayama, n/naka, Two MICHELIN Stars, and Carole Iida

Teague Moriarty, Sons & Daughters, One MICHELIN Star, and Kendall Moriarty

Collage depicting Californios co-owner Carolyn Cantu, a close-up of one of the evening's dishes, and chef Teague Moriarty laughing.

Photography: Adahlia Cole

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