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New York 2023

Chef Fredrik Berselius smiling as he converses with guest chefs at the table.
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In celebration of the partnership between Gaggenau and the MICHELIN Guide, the Black Jacket Society of chefs gathered for dinner and conversation ahead of the first-ever regional MICHELIN Guide Ceremony honoring restaurants from Chicago, New York and Washington, DC.

“Fine dining is accessible to more people and that’s a good thing,” said chef Yuan Tang, of One MICHELIN Star Rooster & Owl. “It’s where we’re heading [and] will showcase to more than just the selected few.” Other chefs in attendance agreed, emphasizing the importance of creating a comfortable and friendly atmosphere for guests. Chef Emma Bengtsson, of Two MICHELIN Star Aquavit, admitted, “I was terrified to go to a fine dining restaurant when I was younger. It was like Pretty Woman—what do I eat with? I don’t want to make a mess. I was like that for years.”

Collage featuring chef Fredrik Berselius making a toast, chef Yuan Tang laughing, and a beautifully plated dish.
Aska staff carefully plating food.

The conversation continued throughout the evening as guests progressed through courses beginning with a Sea Oak blue mussel and ending with a milk sorbet. The chefs discussed the importance of making a connection with guests and guests, in turn, making a connection with their staff. They shared a peek into the great care and thoughtfulness behind crafting a memorable experience such as researching guests ahead of time, and even tailoring music choices to the tastes of that evening’s clientele. “It’s another way to connect and for you to bring that experience for them,” said Johnny Spero, of One MICHELIN Star Reverie.

Ultimately, the chefs agreed cultivating a personalized experience for guests was paramount, emphasizing the importance of connection, comfort, and overall atmosphere. “At the end of the day,” chef Fredrik said, “We just want them to have a good time.”

Collage featuring chefs Johnny Spero and Yuan Tang, as well as a delicious lobster dish.
Group photo of the chefs present: Emma Bengtsson, Johnny Spero, Yuan Tang, and Frederic Berselius.

The select group of chefs included:

Chef Emma Bengtsson, Aquavit, Two MICHELIN Stars

Chef Johnny Spero, Reverie, One MICHELIN Star

Chef Yuan Tang, Rooster & Owl, One MICHELIN Star

Chef Fredrik Berselius, Aska, Two MICHELIN Stars

Collage featuring the iconic moody atmosphere of Aska.

Photography: Adahlia Cole and Colin Peck

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